surfing

there is no better way of to learn surfing than to enjoy. enjoy sitting on the board, slowly waving from side to side, watching the horizon's sunset and completely emerging the endless ocean. When as time and time goes by the only tension is awaiting the next wave to come.


It isn't quite that when you learn it, I must admit. Learning to surf is like constantly battling against an overwhelming power of a waves' kingdom, against tons of water throwing you wherever they feel to. With only the ridiculous power of your legs and some humble strokes of your arms. And exactly this, your hopeless situation it the best reason why its true: you must enjoy it on order to learn it. There is no better feeling than this inapprehensable immense power when you know that all that is needed is understanding. Its like studying a foreingn creatures' behaviour to try to tame it. to finally be able to predicit the next move and to adequately react upon the unforeseen. to catalyse its power for your needs. And when the next wave is throwing you backwards all the few meters of surge you had painfully gained, when it wipes you off your board and all under water, you have to enjoy it, beeing challenged. Knowing, you will understand it, soon. Or eventually, whatever. You must enjoy every time you walk offshore against the waves. must enjoy everytime you stand up on the board, and everytime the waves walks you under.

The important thing is, it is not dangerous. It may suck out your power, it may hurt, it may be freezing after a while, but its not dangerous. But in the end you know that the nature you face is friendly to you, and heartly warm. If you can tame it? - well, that is up to you.